Khana खाना

Food is a huge part of traveling and experiencing new cultures. As an anthropologist, it's no small wonder that up until now I haven't commented at all about the food. Questions like -How is it? -What's it like? -Is it spicy? -Do you like it? -Are you having any meat? -Are you shitting your brains out? keep surfacing. Well there's a lot to be said here, and today you're getting your answers. Strangely, they can be translated into many other aspects of my experiences here in Northwest India. The first is the only universal: Nothing is ever simple. NEVER. If you don't understand what I mean by this, you will soon enough.

One of the first things I noticed when we were picked up from the airport in Jaipur (after the shock of seeing the roaming cows and pigs through the streets everywhere) were the fruit and vegetable carts. Many Indian families we've come in contact start their meals with what they call salad. This is to say they cut up carrots, radishes, cucumbers, tomatoes, and serve them on a dish with lemon or lime. For contrast to those of my friends here in India, at home in the U.S.A. we also start our meals off with salad often enough -but for us the salad is made up mostly of lettuce, then we add the carrots, radishes, cucumbers, tomatoes, and croutons. We also dress the salad with a chutney-like sauce based either of oil & vinegar, or a creamy yogurt-like dressing. Also, The carrots here come in many varieties. Unlike the U.S., where our carrots are typically orange, the usual carrot here is bright red. There are also black and white carrots. I have not yet seen an orange carrot here, but I'm told they exist. So that's just the first course.

In the state of Rajasthan, as well as Gujarat (both in the Northwest of India) meat-eaters exist, but are not very common. As such, the staple of our diet here consits of a bread, usually chapati (an unlevened wheatflour soft bread) and subjee, hindi for vegetables. We eat with our hands here -only the right hand for sanatary reasons. Red pepper, fennel, cardamom, turmeric, and other masalas, or spices, are added to nearly every dish. The food is spicy, but about on par with hot buffalo wings, nothing over the top. Rice with raisons, cashews, butter, and some spices called biriani is served last, then come a variety of sweets.

We are served tea prepared with a variety of spices (chai) at various times of day. Chai is a huge part of Indian culture and is consumed throughout the day for social purposes and bonding. Sweets and desserts are not lacking here. From gulab jamun to jalaybee, the Indians know how to make a good dessert. Packaged candies, on the other hand, are something of a mystery to me over here. There's a mango candy, for example, made primarily of dried mango (Aplam Chaplam -on the left), which looks and tastes like kitty litter. It's just flat out horrible. And yet you can't stop yourself from trying it. "Mouth freshners" are used here in place of mints or gum, and can be seen everywhere. The can range from a bunch of fennel seeds, to a horrible mix of God knows what.

We all brought small packaged candies to hand out to children while we're over here. My choice -even though I was advised not to by Brendan (yes, I know I should listen to you more) was mint lifesavers. So I'm not surprised that I was wrong to bring lifesavers. But I am surprised at why I was wrong though. Let me explain why: Every meal has spices. It's not overbearing for me, but it's something to note. -Breakfast too. So the answer to why the people don't like the mint lifesavers is that they're too spicy. I don't understand. Nothing is ever simple here.